June 11,2002 Ft Lauderdale

Dear Gang,

Crossed back from Bahamas to Fl (Palm Beach) on June 4th and are now settled in marina on New River in Ft Lauderdale. It was a struggle getting out of Marathon, but we had a great 5 weeks in the Bahamas.

Moved out of slip in Marathon Apr 12 and anchored in outer harbor in preparation for departure to Miami. That afternoon, a boat came in and anchored next to us. They had just come in from Bahamas and had caught a black grouper on way in. Too much for them to eat so offered us fresh fish for dinner. We're usually pretty careful about fish due to possibility of ciguatera (fish poisoning from fish feeding on reefs or reef fish). The effects can be pretty devastating and long lasting, but not too likely in smaller fish (under 6-7 pounds) and much more prevalent in Bahamas than in US. So great dinner.

The wind was really pumping out of the East (on the nose heading up Keys) the next day, so Pacer, going with us to Bahamas, decided to wait. However, we wanted to get going and took off early. After 4 hours of tacking into 25-30 Knots and only making about 7 miles, we ran back to Marathon and waited a couple more days. Tues, Apr 16, Pacer left with us, our destination Rodriguez Key, about 50 miles upwind and the only stop between Marathon. Wind and seas were down, but in 6 hours we had made about 25 miles, so decided to duck under Channel Five Bridge into bay side of Keys to anchor for night. We can't travel inside because depth in many channels too shallow; we draw 6 ft and many spots are 4.5 ft at low water. Since winds not letting up for a few days, we decided to try inside route for Miami, timing low water areas for high tide. After 10 miles, we started bumping bottom and it was apparent we were out of deep enough water, so pulled off in nearby harbor where one of our favorite little pubs was located. We all spent the next couple of days exploring anchorages (and pubs) on the way back to access to ocean side and Hawk Channel when the wind finally eased off.

We finally made Rodriguez Key with light on-the-nose sailing. While anchored there, we had a great experience. We were sitting in the cockpit, when a big ray (5 ft wing span) came flying out of the water right next to the boat. It rose 8-9 ft into air for about 30 ft, entered the water, then flew out 3 more times - a beautiful sight! Next day we had another beat into light on-the-nose and burned more diesel. We motored into Stiltsville Channel late Sunday afternoon along with every other boat in Florida returning from their weekend afloat. The wakes from these enormous speeding stink pots was truly awesome, but we finally made it to the anchorage.

Spent one night in Biscayne Bay (Miami), then on to Lake Sylvia (Ft Laud), in preparation for crossing to Bahamas. Had several days to wait for a weather window. My cousin Carole arrived for a vacation with her mother. When we got thrown out of Lake Sylvia (only allowed 24 hrs anchored there) Carole invited to use their slip in front of her Hollywood condo, about 5 miles south of Ft Laud. Not only did we have good visiting time, but also a shower, washer/dryer, air conditioning, and a Scrabble player. Pacer had gone to a mooring off the Las Olas Marina. Tues, Apr 30th, met them at Port Everglades inlet at 7pm and did an easy night crossing .The U.S. Navy was holding "Fleet Week" in Ft. Laud Harbor and our crossing the harbor to leave the inlet was under the watchful eyes and drawn machine guns of the several gunboats guarding the Carrier Eisenhower and several Aegis Class destroyers.

Last week, I met a women here in the laundry. On Mon., April 29th, she had been traveling on her 33 ft Endeaver (sailboat), single-handed, from Key West to Ft Laud. On the ICW, at the Dania Beach Bridge, she got caught up in the current before the bridge opened, tried to turn and was swept under the bridge. Her ports were open and when the mast took her over, the boat filled with water and sank. It was a total loss. We came through that bridge the next day and were well aware of the current. Didn't see her boat, so they must have already removed it.

The crossing itself mostly motor sailing, but we did get a few hours peaceful sailing. Much fast moving shipping( Cruise Ships, Tankers, etc) came out to taunt us just as the sun went down. These guys move so fast it would be all but impossible to get out of the way, so you need to have some level of faith that they see you out there, particularly since most of them didn't return requests by radio whether they could see us plugging along out there among the rollers.

We arrived in Lucaya (Grand Bahama) about noon, May 1st. - only one month later than we planned to be there, then headed north via West End and off to Abacos. Pacer stayed in Lucaya for a few days while Bill flew back to Boston for another doctor's appt.

The next few days were what you imagine cruising in The Bahamas to be. About 25 miles a day, anchoring off deserted Cays, with few other boats.

Last year, I thought I had sent out two "gang" letters, only to discover neither went thru and I had no copies. We were traveling with Distant Drum, with Tom and Marney. Tom loved to dive for fish and conch and kept us well supplied. We ate conch every way imaginable: cracked conch, curried conch, conch salad, conch fritters, sautéed and in pasta sauce. If you've ever caught and cleaned a conch you know how much work is involved. Without Tom, we either get our seafood in restaurants or the fish market. Surprisingly, we've found few places to buy fish during our last three years in The Bahamas, but there is a good one in Marsh Harbor.

For two weeks we made our way toward Marsh Harbor with good weather, 80's during the day and 70's at night. We were getting plenty of wind which kept our wind generator humming away and producing electricity. Plenty of ice cubes every day and I was even able to watch videos several times. We usually get NPR from FL so kept up on the news. One night we anchored in Allen's Harbor with several other boats. The guide says poor holding, which must be right since the next morning we looked out to find we had dragged out of the harbor into The Sea of Abaco. Since we were still in about 8 ft of water, we just stayed there til time to leave. Luckily, we had not dragged toward the nearby rocks.

We were pushing for Marsh Harbor to meet The Walshes for their yearly visit when the rains started. After no rain for 4 months, the locals were ecstatic to see it. After it had rained daily for the next three weeks (one day had 2" in 2 hours) and their cauldrons were full, even they were ready to see it stop. Since its been raining daily for the last few days here in FL, I assume they're still getting it over there.

We met up with Pacer again in Marsh Harbor as well as some other friends from Fl . The Walshes arrived May 23rd in rain and high winds, just like the previous 2 years. We were afraid we were going to have to quit inviting them, when the winds died a little the next day and we had a great sail to Baker's Bay, Great Iguana Cay. The jinx was broken, even tho we were concerned when there was only one other boat in a harbor that usually has several. Did others know something we didn't? (We were back there a week later with 40 boats.) However, a great night and day ashore exploring, then on to other harbors. Even in rain and wind, we always have fun with the Walshes, exploring, swimming, snorkeling. (But you know I don't go in. It's a jungle down there!)

They love fish, so mahi mahi (dolphin), conch fritters, tuna and mackerel. Another boat gave the last two to us when they had too much. I've never eaten so much seafood.

They flew out on the 28th and Pacer invited us to dinner. Jan had bought grouper at the fish market. It was so thick she decided to fix kabobs on the grill. We discussed how big that grouper must have been to be so thick. We should have thought twice!! But it was delicious.

Pacer's friends, who were supposed to sail North with them, could not come at the last minute, so they decided to sail back to Palm Beach with us. We left the 29th, motorsailing to Baker's Bay in preparation for our trip back. That day I was all upset since my eyes were acting up, very difficult to focus and I had a headache. I couldn't believe my eyesight could deteriorate so quickly. I was really tired, with aches and pains, but didn't think much about it. And my feet were itching like crazy. The next day we had drinks on Pacer when Bill said he was having a terrible time with itchy feet and hands and Jan was generally not feeling well. The next morning Bill called on the radio to say they had been researching and decided we had CIGUATERA! I laughed and thought he was kidding, but went for my Onboard Medical Book. Sure enough. For some reason, Ken had no symptoms, but Jan and Bill had eaten the same grouper another night, and had been eating lots of fish.

The medical book says don't eat any fish, peanuts or alcohol for 2 weeks. Jan and I threw all our remaining fish -leftover and in the freezer- overboard. Ken was happy that he could have our last jar of peanuts to himself. But each afternoon we would get together for cocktail hour to see if we were still in trouble. Soon, Jan, Bill and I were busily scratching away at feet and hands.

It's really not a laughing matter and the effects can go on for months. Ciquatoxin causes prolonged stimulation of the nervous system with many devastating symptoms. Luckily I have only a mild case, but Bill and Jan are much sicker (and have not been drinking). Only time will tell.

We crossed over from West End to Palm Beach on June 4th. Left at 4 am and arrived in Fl 3pm that afternoon, a much more pleasant way to cross than overnight. Said farewell to Pacer and headed for Ft Laud. next day.

Ken has to switch insurance companies, so were getting a boat survey on Monday. Carole's arriving Sat for a few days, so she and I will go play. Then we will drive to RI sometime next week. Meanwhile, Conquest will remain in Ft Laud for the summer and Ken will stay aboard to hold back the annual onslaught of hurricanes. We look forward to seeing many of you soon. Jane and Ken _