March 16, 2000 Lee Stocking Island Exumas

Dear Gang, Here we are, 20 miles from George Town, with Ken's brother and son arriving Sun, 3/19. We're sitting on the west side of the Cay in 20-25 kn winds out of the E-SE (just where we need to go), 6-8 ft waves outside. We've been trying to leave for 4 days and there's no letup in sight. We must also pass thru a narrow cut into high winds and seas coming from over 300 ft depth out there and pushing its way to 12 feet depth in here. So you can imagine the roller coaster getting out. Other than that and the fact we're running out of food, water, patience and time, everything is great!

Have been listening to Jimmy Buffet CD"s lately. I like his song about looking for paradise/happiness. Says you "must adjust (your) attitude with change in latitude. I just want to live happily forever - now and then." That's about the size of it!

Now, back to when I sent last letter in early Feb. Can't find disk with last letter so hope I don't repeat myself. Cavalier was repairing engine problems, Star Child was hauled repairing keel and rudder damage from hitting rock, I was looking longingly at Paradise Island and casino. Ken agreed to walk over with me while I lost my $10.00 - which turned into $15 cause he went off to the bar . Earl on Star Child met a local while in the boatyard who hired him to work on a 32 ft Morgan sailboat he had just bought for $7,000. The guy knew nothing about boats or sailing, but wanted Earl to fix it up, teach him to sail and make a trip to Miami with him. Earl's a little hard of hearing and thought he said he was Asian. Turns out he was HAITIAN. Earl fixed it up , took him out for three hours (and taught him how to sail) but decided Miami was not a good idea!! But the guy paid him and for a slip the whole time.

Meanwhile, we had a week before guests were to arrive, so took off 2/11 to explore northern Exumas with Cavalier. Motor sailed 30 miles to Allen's Cay: just as pleased to have little breeze and no seas since it takes 6-7 miles to cross The yellow Banks, about 12 ft of water with nasty coral heads below the surface. This must be done mid day with someone on the bow spotting the heads and working around them. Once you get over the initial fright, it's fairly easy to do -in calm seas. Then on to Allen's Cay to watch iguana frolicing on the sandy beaches. Actually, there can be 20-50 sitting in the sunshine; however if you clap your hands like you have food, the young ones will come galloping toward you- which can be a little disconcerting. There are no other inhabitants and dogs are not allowed on the cays (I don't know who would win the fight) and it's funny to hear all the boats with dogs aboard frantically calling others for info on a place to walk them.

2/13 motorsailed to Norman's Cay, home of MacDuff"s bar. About 20 boats in harbor around old plane wreck. Cay had been home of big drug dealer in the 70's. The plane was one of theirs along with several old buildings slowly deteriorating. MacDuff's is located about 1/2 a mile walk across cay next to airstrip, along with 3 cottages he rents for $200/night. That's all there is on this end of the cay and guests must come by boat or small plane. So off we went with Cavalier. The bar is a little open shack with a deck, 4-5 tables and palm frond roof (with holes), an outhouse with running water, and a hot tub under construction - just what you'd hope to find. It'd definitely worth the price to order a drink requiring a blender to watch him pull the cord on a weed wacker which runs the blender. Any talk must stop due to the racket.

2/14 Valentine's Day - I decide to take Ken out for a MacDuff burger. We arrived about 1:00 as a group was leaving, making us the only customers. While enjoying our burger, a small plane flew in with 3 good ole boys from Kentucky along with their pilot and asking for a cottage for the night. Those of you who know me (well) know this is an adventure looking for a place to happen. Pretty soon I've invited them on the boat for cocktails and sailing tomorrow if they'll take us flying. They're thrilled to be going to the harbor and sailing. The two brothers are in their 60's, own various construction related businesses. Their wives don't like to go, so they take off now and then with their pilot, in 30's, soon to be married.

On the way back to the boat, we swung by Cavalier to fill them in. Told Arthur they might have to fill in if we had to leave to beat cold front back to Nassau. He was ecstatic since he had just told me the day before he would give anything to be able to fly over the Exumas. Our Kentucky friends were a little surprised when the boys met them on the shore and told them they would have to take off shoes and socks, roll up their pantlegs and wade out to the tenders. But they were good sports and as eager for adventures as we were.

Luckily for me, the cold front held off, I got to go sailing with the gang on Cavalier and Martha, Arthur and I went flying in the afternoon. What a sight to fly down over the various cays, looking at harbors and all the hues of blue surrounding them. We could even pick out rays swimming in the shallow waters. And Arthur was in heaven sitting up front next to the pilot. I assured him on more than one occasion that he "owed me big time". I only wished that Ken were along to enjoy it, but being a four seater, he chose to stay back and keep an eye on the boats.

Wed 2/16 - back to Nassau to prepare for arrival of guests (Mike and Lucille and 9 yr old son, Stephen) on Sat. While waiting in marina, heard Walkabout on radio. Cavalier had mentioned them (Connie and Bart on a Little Harbor 38, built in Portsmouth RI) and told us to keep an eye out for them. When they came into the marina, I immediately introduced myself and we proceeded to have some great times together.

The first started at the local veg/fish market one rainy morning. A short, gregarious local walked up to us and introduced himself as Tiny (weighed about 300). Said we should spend this rainy day at newly opened Sheraton on Paradise Is, free lunch, tour, vacation promotion (not time share, but same idea) and receive $40.00 each. Immediately, Connie and I thought "gambling money" and said we 'd go right then if he'd give us a ride. Sure, if we didn't mind the fish in the back. And what a ride it was! Being the youngest and most agile, I volunteered to climb over the driver's seat since the passenger door didn't open. The other three sat in back. We laughed all the way, dragging bottom every time we hit a bump. It started pouring, the back windows wouldn't go up, Connie was getting drenched and Bart said the fish were about to swim away. Tiny made us promise not to tell them he had driven us, since it's all supposed to be posh with a taxi provided.

The program began like an Amway show. There were about 6 tables of people, each with its own salesperson. With loud blaring music, each "table host" had to introduce their guests, tell a little about them. Then everyone applauded, guests stood, danced with the hosts, hooted and howled. You can imagine how pleased Ken and Bart were to be there. However, we made it thru 21/2 hours, picked up our $40.00 per couple and started out the door.

And what was 50 yds away but Atlantis Resort and Casino. The first thing Ken did was make me give him $20.00 of the $40.00. Now, was that fair?? Atlantis also has the world's largest marine habitat, 11 exhibit lagoons and 50,000 sea animals. It is truly spectacular and well worth the $25.00/person if you're not staying at the resort. However, we're on a budget. I know, MOM, you taught me better. So...

On our way through the hotel, I spotted a group out in the rain looking in a lagoon, so I wandered out. It was full of BIG turtles. As I glanced around, I spotted an entrance to one of the underground tunnels, but no gate keeper. It was cold and rainy and not many guest venturing about. So I motioned to the group and sauntered into the tunnel, the rest followed. We spent the next hour in and out of caves with aquariums, over and around lagoons with sharks, rays and every imaginable sea animal, thru glass tunnels under lagoons. It was all wondrous to behold. And finally we emerged right by THE CASINO - where I only lost $5, but had lots of fun since Connie enjoys it as much as I do. (and Bart dislikes it as much as Ken.) Connie and I decided we make a great team!

Mike and family were to arrive Sat afternoon, 3/11. We had heard there was a storm in Boston so kept checking with marina for messages. When they hadn't arrived by 7pm, assumed they'd arrive Sun. About 5:30 Sun went to check again on messages and found little note on desk saying "Mike will arrive Tues noon." When I asked how long they'd had the message, she said "not my job!"

Unfortunately, our worst fears were realized. That same storm you guys had on the East Coast sent a strong northerly front our way and we were never able to leave Nassau the whole time they were here. However, we still had a great time. Since Atlantis wouldn't even let non guests pay $25 anymore to spend the day and use the facilities, I just had to take them in my way. We discovered parts of the seaquarium we missed on our fisrt trip, including an underground bar with one tank of pirana, another of giant moray eels, and a third going up one wall, over and down the other jam packed with lobster. Also a restaurant where the walls looked into the tanks so you could watch sharks and others swim by during dinner - if you could afford to pay for dinner (4 people - $200-$300).

Stephen really wanted to do the water slide which required a wrist band. However, Mike is ever resourceful, acquired a couple of Atlantis green and white towels, looped a plastic float over his wrist, and took Stephen right up there. The big thrill is riding down thru a plastic tube right thru the shark tank! The next trip, Mike even sweet talked a guest into getting them a wrist band so Stephen could ride the even more spectacular slide. Where there's a will there's a way. We spent a great week with them, greatly enjoyed the Omaha steaks and hamburgers they brought, saw a lot of Nassau and did a lot of partying. We even tried to sail to Allen's one day but turned back as the wind and seas increased. TO BE CONTINUED-must send disk with guests

3/18 Wind finally died yesterday, so sailed to George Town today, guests arriving tomorrow. 3/25 Much too expensive and complicated to use email here so will send disk with guests to get out to you all, hopefully. Probably won't use email again til get back to Nassau or find another source. Anyone who needs to can fax us here at 242-336-2645 attention S/V CONQUEST - at least until April 8. They announce faxes on VHF radio every AM and you pick them up at Exuma Market. If you need a reply, send your fax number.

Happy Spring, Jane and Ken